C O L L E C T I O N   T W O  -  D I S C H A R G E

Collection No.2 was printed using a method called discharge printing. This method starts with dyed cloth, and then an agent is printed, which removes some or all, of the colour from the fabric.

Firstly our fabric is washed to remove any impurities, for small amounts this is done by hand, and for larger quantities a jigger can be used.

Above: The jigger uses two rolls, sending the fabric from one of the rolls back to the other, submerging the fabric in the middle through a cleaning bath.

The cloth is then dyed to the desired colour. We mix small amounts of colour to make a dye recipe, before dyeing the full quantity of fabric.

Above: Sham places the dye in a small piece of cloth before picking up the edges to create a pouch, which he dips and mixes into the water in the bucket below.

We use natural vegetable and mineral dyes where possible, sometimes these dyes are boosted with acid free dyes to achieve brighter colours.

The fabric is pinned to the print table, and the wood block is dipped into the print tray and then stamped onto the fabric. It’s important for the print block to have an even pressure applied to it, so after placing it down it is hit firmly with the printers fist.

Above: Idrish prints small samples of our ‘Mountain’ print

Discharge paste can be difficult to see when printing because it contains no colour. It will appear as a darker mark on the pattern until dried in the sun and then steamed.

Above: Idrish prints a length of our ‘Weave’ print

After steaming the fabric, it is washed in water, which finally reveals the print

The fabric can then be left to dry or it can go through a second round of printing, such as our ‘Sand’ print, which is dyed, discharge printed, steamed, washed, dyed and discharge printed a second time, before a final steam and wash.

Above: Idrish prints the second layer of our ‘Sand’ print

When sampling our fabric is washed and dyed in large buckets, but in production we used concrete baths to wash the fabric.

Above: Deepak washes our ‘Sand’ print

After a final wash, Liz and Deepak hang our samples to dry on a washing line so that cows don’t wander over them and they don’t pick up dust from the ground.

Our finished fabric is taken to our stitcher-man, Masterji Vikram in Jaipur, to be sewn into shirts.